Brixham & Beyond……
Living as we do in such a scenic part of the U.K., we are sometimes guilty of taking our surroundings for granted. However, Mrs. C and I are determined to continue to explore Devon and Cornwall as much as possible, especially as we have the luxury of being able to do so during the week and avoiding the crowds during school holidays.
Our adventures often start on the Barbican Plymouth, over a cup of coffee at the wonderful Cornish Bakery. My creative muse Mrs. C, deserves the credit for searching out great day trips and ways to “scratch my creative itch”……..and that’s not a euphemism!
A place that many people kept mentioning to us is the historic Devon fishing town of Brixham. So over the course of a week we made three separate visits to Brixham and its environs, Fishcombe Cove and Berry Head.
Each day, we fired up Bridget, dialled Brixham in to the sat-nav and headed up the A38 for the hour-long drive from Plymouth.
Fore Street Brixham.
By way of background Brixham was originally founded as a Saxon settlement, being known as “Brioc’s Ham” and was recorded in the domesday Book of 1086.
The town is also famous as the landing point of William of Orange on 5th November 1688 from where he launched the “Glorious Revolution” to take the English throne.
Willam of Orange standing guard at the entrance to the port.
Wherever you look in Brixham you will find that the sea is a way of life.
As you enter the area around the port you know you are in a town steeped in maritime history. Like many Devonian and Cornish towns, during the 18th and 19th centuries the town was allegedly a hotbed for smugglers trying to avoid the taxes and tolls of the dreaded Customs & Excise officers.
Reflecting Brixham’s maritime history, the first thing you come across when entering the port is a full-size replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship The Golden Hinde. You can have a look around the ship but at £12 a ticket for an adult I thought this was a bit steep.
The Golden Hinde.
Getting ready for “Nutter”, sorry I mean Pirate weekend :-)
Since the early 19th century the town had become the home of a substantial fishing street and by the 1820’s over 120 tons of Turbot and Sole were landed in Brixham each week. Today Brixham still remains the top fishing port in England and Wales by value of catch.
Brixham fishing fleet at anchor.
Lobster and chips - very much my happy place!
Views of the Port.
We were interested in exploring the nearby Fishcombe Cove so we took the opportunity to walk along the coastal path, via the Brixham Marine Laboratory. On the way we took advantage of this calm environment to sit on a park bench, eat our picnic and enjoy the views out cross Brixham Harbour towards the Breakwater Lighthouse.
The Breakwater Lighthouse.
We then took the walk along a section of the coastal path through Battery Gardens, ending up at the secluded Fishcombe Cove.
Fishcombe Cove
The Brixham Breakwater Lighthouse from the coastal path.
A moment of reflection.
The view from the coastal path back towards Brixham.
A fine day to set sail with Brixham Breakwater Lighthouse in the background.
My little brother - always keen to model.
As regular readers will know our trips always revolve around caffeine and cake and the Chart Room restaurant and Cafe, located just off Fore Street, excels in both. It is full of memorabilia of the historic Cunard liners. This was particularly sentimental for me as my Dad and brother both sailed with Cunard.
Coffee and cake at the Chart Room.
What a location and view to enjoy a picnic.
Up above Fishcombe Cove is the Brixham Battery Heritage Group and Museum. As I am very interested in all things related to military history I was very keen to visit. Of course, the days we chose to visit were the days the museum was closed. However, a very good reason for a return visit. Entry is free but of course, donations are very much in order to assist with upkeep etc.
362 Battery Royal Artillery Museum.
Shades of the Guns of Navarone.
However, nothing is ever wasted and the walk back through the beautiful Battery Park provided an opportunity for some more modeling by my little brother.
He is a good looking boy my little brother.
Battery Park.
As I have already mentioned all our trips must include calories and caffeine. Fishcombe Cove has a delightful cafe which provides very tasty coffee and the most excellent bacon sandwiches. Regular readers will already be aware of our family tradition of consuming one portion of pork product, in any form, each day of a visit.
An oasis - great coffee and bacon sarnies.
Fishcombe Cove beach - Sweeping views across Torbay with Torquay in the distance.
Mrs. C was unanimous in not wanting to get her kit off for a swim.
Churston Bay in the distance.
A beautiful little Cove and a great coffee and bacon sandwich as well!
As I waited for our delicious mid-morning repast, Mrs. C had climbed back up the cliff path to find a suitable vantage point to enjoy said vittles.
Hurry up with the coffee and bacon sarnies!
What a spot to enjoy brunch - Perhaps a contender for the Bench of Contemplation?
What a way to enjoy brunch with views across Torbay with Torquay and the jurassic Coast in the distance.
Another contender for The Bench of Contemplation?
Walking around the port to the Brixham Breakwater provides a view of town with a very different perspective.
THE RNLI Lifeboat Station - where we would be without these brave volunteers.
A walk along the Victoria Breakwater and out to the Brixham Lighthouse.
Fishcombe Cove from the Victoria Breakwater.
Located on the Victoria Breakwater at the entrance to Brixham Harbour is a lighthouse that was erected in 1916. It is very much a focal point from a photographic standpoint and standing at 6 meters and with a light range of 6 miles, guides the Brixham fishing fleet safely back to harbour.
The Lighthouse.
A man is never happier unless he has his rod in his hand!
Our final visit to Brixham involved a detour to the Berry Head National Nature Reserve. We happened to choose a most glorious day for our visit. There is plenty of paid parking and the headland, surrounded by sea and with its lighthouse and Napoleonic era fort, is simply stunning.
Berry Head.
Sail Ahoy!
Getting all arty amongst the ruins.
The nature reserve encompasses some 170 acres and with such a diverse range of birdlife, I was kicking myself for not bringing the 100-400mm zoom and a monopod. There are all manner of finches, Cirl Buntings and out to sea Gullimots, Fulmars, Kittiwakes and Gannets. Truly a “Twitchers” paradise.
Walking through the nature reserve.
Views back toward Brixham and Fishcombe Cove.
The Berry Head Lighthouse was built by Trinity House in 1906 as part of a chain of beacons along the south coast. At a height of 5 meters, yet situated at the end of the point which itself some 58 meters above the water, the lighthouse has a range of some 19 nautical miles.
Berry Head Lighthouse.
With all the walking around the nature reserve you will work up a thirst. However, fear not as the Guardhouse cafe is on hand to provide all manner of drinks plus hot and cold food. We already came prepared with steaming hot pasties but on our next visit we will arrive early morning and sample their famed full English breakfast.
The Guardhouse Cafe.
I spy………
The Napoleonic era forts at Berry Head were build between 1803-1805 and were designed to protect the Torbay naval anchorage from French invasion. The site consists of two main forts along with Hardy’s Head Battery.
The Fort at Berry Head
I just love a cannon.
Views across Torbay.
Memories of War but all peaceful now.
Well there you have it, a very brief insight in to the three days that we spent exploring Brixham and its environs. So if you are traveling down the A38 en route to Cornwall, do yourself a favor, turn left and spend a day in Brixham; you won’t regret it.
Across the three days there were a number of contenders for The Bench of Comtemplation but I hope you will also agree this spot at Berry Head Nature Reserve was simply breathtaking.
The Bench of Contemplation
I do hope you have enjoyed all things Brixham and that we have piqued your interest and encouraged you to pay the area a visit.
As we come in to May it is a very exciting time for our family as we head-off to Edinburgh for our daughters wedding. We are all so excited.
We still have lots planned across the summer including a visit to Paris, Florence and Tuscany so stay tuned for that adventure. Meantime, it’s Pirate weekend here in Plymouth so I am off to join the local “Nutters”, sorry I mean Pirates, to celebrate this annual event which is actually great fun. Please check my instagram feed for the imagery.
If you can’t beat them, join them!
See you all soon and warmest regards from a very warm and sunny Plymouth.