May 2026 was a most memorable month in the history of the Chivers family as it would mark the wedding of our daughter Anna to her fiancee Matthew, said wedding to take place in the wonderful Scottish city of Edinburgh.
However, as I had a role in this wonderful event (very proud father of the bride) I would be without camera. Hence, until we receive the formal images from the photographer, my blog about this most special day is held in abeyance.
Needless to say, it would not be a spoiler alert to say that a most wonderful day was had by all…….hold that thought!
Mrs. C and I had decided to arrive in Edinburgh a week before the wedding, so as to be available for any last minute jobs that needed to be taken care of but primarily to spend a few days chilling out.
Over the past few years we have become regular visitors to scotland’s capital city and during each visit we always try and see something new. This visit, we decided to spend a morning viewing HMY Britannia, which is now moored at the docks in Leith.
For this visit I decided to keep things simple and break out the trusty Leica Q Type 116 with its magnificent 28 mm F1.7 Summilux lens.
So, we headed to the tram-stop on Princes Street and boarded the tram with the destination Ocean Terminal Leith.
As we waited for our tram the anticipation began to mount.
Other than by foot, Edinburgh trams are the only way to travel and are efficient, clean and inexpensive.
Taking in the views as we progress along Princes Street.
The journey by tram is very comfortable and takes around 20 minutes and costs £1.20. You simply use your debit card or phone to tap on and then tap off. Of course, being a gentleman of a certain age I spent the entire journey humming “I’m Gonna Be (500 miles)”, that famous anthem from the Scottish duo “The Proclaimers”. If I knew how to work the technology I would have it playing in the background to this blog but you can do this via Spotify as you read.
On arrival at the Ocean Terminal, the entrance to the Royal Yacht Britannia is clearly marked. We booked our ticket online but you can pay at the gate. The cost for adults is £24 but for a couple of pounds extra, you can buy an “anytime ticket”. The ticket times are every half hour so if you have an anytime ticket you can start your tour on the quarter hour thereby avoiding the rush. I would allow a good 3 hours (including cake break) to fully enjoy this beautiful vessel.
HMY Britannia in all her majesty.
Before boarding Britannia you will pass through the Britannia Exhibition which tells the history of this wonderful vessel in both words and images. I have captured a few below but allow me to give you the executive summary.
The yacht was built by shipbuilders John Brown & Company of Glasgow and was launched on 16th April 1953 and formally commissioned on 11th January 1954.
The ship has a length of 126 metres, a beam of 17 metres and a height to the top of the mainmast of 37 metres.
It has a gross tonnage of 5,769 tonnes and a draught of 4.6 metres.
Powered by 2 Pametrada steam turbines she has a top speed of 21.5 knots and a range of 4,400 kilometres.
She had a capacity for 250 guests and required a crew of 21 officers and 250 royal yachtsmen.
So that’s the nerdy bit taken care of so lets have a look at a selection of images from the exhibition:
Hard to port helmsman! - is that left or right sir?
Not the crew of your average yacht!
During her lifetime she visited 135 countries, undertook 696 foreign visits and steamed 2,014,278 kilometres.
She always carried a detachment of the famous Royal Marines Marching Band for royal visits.
Mrs. C preparing to make a royal entrance.
As you board the vessel you are given an audio guide which tells you about all aspects of the vessel. I found this extremely easy to use and highly informative.
Captain’s view from the bridge.
The ship’s compass. Any idea which way we are heading?
The main mast.
Mrs. C - caught in the searchlight.
Once aboard the vessel it becomes apparent that this is more than a yacht, it is a mobile stately home with all its comfort and grandeur. Wherever Britannia visited, an invitation to attend a function on board was highly prized and rarely refused. Indeed she was a projection of the United Kingdom’s soft power and was indirectly responsible for generating billions of pounds of investment in to the U.K. and contracts for U.k. businesses; something our short sighted politicians failed to appreciate or recognize when they decided to decommission her on cost grounds…..hold that thought!
More a cruise liner than a yacht me thinks!
Whenever the royal family travelled nothing was left to chance. The on-board garage carried a Land Rover for the rougher terrains and when required the royal Rolls Royce Phantom V could also be accommodated.
As we arrived at the stern I notice a man standing at the end of a jetty preparing to dive in to the dock. Then I realised that this was one of the life-sized Anthony Gormley statues.
Anthony Gormley Statue - when I wished I had a telephoto lens!
As you walk around this beautiful vessel you appreciate the grandeur but also the glimpses of a floating family home where, for short periods, our royal family could enjoy some well-earned privacy and respite.
The Queen’s bedroom.
Even when travelling the affairs of state have to carry on. Queen Elizabeth was extremely hard working and in addition to meeting and greeting hundreds of dignitaries and guests she still had to deal with mundane matters of her government.
The Queen’s office.
The salon where the family could relax and perhaps take afternoon tea or an after dinner digestif.
The state dining room. Nothing is left to chance and the table is laid with a military precision.
Below decks the various ranks had their own quarters, dining areas and rest areas.
Not too shabby - dining room for the senior officers.
Senior officers ward room - with obligatory bar. This was not a dry ship!
A glass of champagne or perhaps a gin and tonic or a dry martini - everything could be provided.
There is even a pub!
A pint of best bitter please barman.
As usual our visits always included calories. Mid-tour we decided to stop by the elegant Britannia Cafe located at the aft of the vessel. I enjoyed a pot of Britannia Blend tea accompanied by a mature cheddar scone whilst Mrs. C ordered a ginger beer and a rather delicious slice of lemon drizzle cake. All this was enjoyed with fabulous views across the docks and beyond. We were very much in our happy place.
Whilst the family and their guests were made extremely comfortable, the officers and crew had what might be termed as “bijou” accommodation which became even more “bijou” for the lower ranks.
The Post Room - perhaps the most important room for the crew who would be away from loved ones for months at a time.
When you are carry the U.K’s head of state all eventualities had to be taken in to consideration so there was even a full operating theatre in the sick bay. In fact when Britannia was originally commissioned she was designed to double-up as a hospital ship should the need ever arise.
The sick bay with full operating theatre.
Perhaps the busiest area of the ship, other than the kitchens, was the laundry. This was a 24 hour 7 days a week operation. Indeed, some of the senior ranks might have to change uniforms up to six times a day to perform various ceremonial duties.
Laundry on an industrial scale.
One of the most interesting areas also proved to be Britannia’s eventual downfall, her engine rooms. This area was always kept in pristine condition and would often amaze visiting dignitaries. One American president remarked that the engine room museum was spectacular but where were the actual engines!
The engine room.
We undertook a “virtual” tour of the engine room and below we can see Mrs. C with her virtual headset. It is so lifelike and immersive that they put you in a cubicle with hand supports to stop you wandering off and hurting yourself.
Mrs, C going virtual.
One thing you notice when outside of the ship is that the hull appears completely smooth and there is a complete absence of rivets. This was apparently one of the design features insisted upon by our late Queen who was determined that Britannia be both sleek and elegant.
Britannia visited so many far away places, hosted Presidents, Emperors and all manner of dignatories and was involved in crises such as the evacuation of Aden. Perhaps her most famous and saddest claim to fame was her final voyage when, in 1997, she transported our now King Charles and Hong Kong Governor, Chris Patten, on their departure from Hong Kong when it was handed back to China.
On her final voyage leaving Hong Kong Harbour.
An emotional letter from our late Queen and the then Duke of Edinburgh.
All clocks on board are set at one minute past three, the time when our late Queen departed Britannia for the last time.
The ship’s bell.
Honi soit qui mal y pense - “Shame on him who thinks evil of it”.
Time to get a little arty on the way out.
Back on the tram, destination Princes Street.
View from Edinburgh back towards the Firth of Forth..
So there you have it, a morning spent in Leith “On her Majesties Service”. Britannia, that fine old lady, still sits in the Ocean with grace and majesty. Everyone has their view about the Royal Family and my blogs are never political. However, I am a royalist and when you have lived overseas for 30 years you appreciate what our royal family do when representing the UK around the world.
However it only takes small minded politicians to take the vital tools of soft power away and waste that money on non productive items in search of votes and self gratification….but I digress.
The remainder of the week was super chilled and capped off by the most wonderful family wedding at the Kirk on Canongate on the Royal mile. As I mentioned pictures to come in due course but I thought I would end this blog, not with my usual bench of contemplation but with our daughter Anna and her husband Matthew enjoying the happiest day of their lives.
What a beautiful couple!
Mrs. C and I have a very hectic summer planned so stay tuned for more adventures. Meantime, best wishes and warmest regards from a hot and sunny Plymouth U.K.